Nutmeg & Clove Turns Ten
The story behind the revered and award-winning Singaporean bar is one of grit and gratitude.
When Colin Chia left his day job of 12 years to set up Nutmeg & Clove a decade ago, he’d never thought the bar would win awards or generate a gamut of unique dining concepts. “I still cannot believe it,” he reflects. Established at a time when Singapore’s nascent cocktail bar scene was starting to bubble into public consciousness, and in the wake of prominent pioneers like Tippling Club and Jigger & Pony, Nutmeg & Clove sought (and still seeks) to stir up stories related to the sunny island.
The bar first landed on the fringe of Singapore’s central business district within the Ann Siang enclave, once home to a preeminent nutmeg and clove plantation during the 1800s — hence, its moniker. There, it doled out inventive tipples with a localised inflection. These include the assaultive gin-based cocktail Barrel Aged Singapore Sling and the pandan-leaf-and-spices-infused Good ‘Ole’ Fashion Revolution, both popular creations in the bar’s earlier menu.
For the nation’s 52nd birthday in 2017, the team conceptualised concoctions that tip hat to William Farquhar and his commissioned collection of floral and fauna drawings, adding elements of galangal (in the form of fermented galangal beer and galangal-infused vodka) to punch up the classic Moscow Mule, or utilising durians and mangosteens in a playful but exotic interpretation of the Rum Milk Punch.
“Our journey has been nothing short of a whirlwind,” Chia confesses. Citing disagreements with the landlord, he had to relocate within the enclave in 2016. That was also the time when, to his pleasant surprise, Nutmeg & Clove landed itself a coveted spot on the prestigious World’s Best Bars list (debuting at #72). Despite the accolade, the bar had to move again during the pandemic to Purvis Street, another location of significance — Chia’s family once lived in a shophouse along the street. “We moved here because it reminded me of home.”
Chia is unfazed by such changes, however. For him, running a business entails making tough but pragmatic decisions, even if it means bidding goodbye to familiar haunts, scraping away old menus, reintroducing new ones, finding collaborations to inject novelty, and starting afresh to stay relevant. “We eventually decided to get a restaurant license,” he says, a pivotal move during the pandemic that allowed them to broaden their horizons. Nutmeg & Clove has since evolved to become part of a larger collective.
Since late 2020, renowned bartender Shelley Tai (formerly of Quinary in Hong Kong) has been leading the team at Nutmeg Collective. “Having Shelly on board was one of the best decisions I’ve made,” says Chia. The 2019 winner of the Diageo Reserve World Class HK & Macau competition is no small fry in the mixology scene, having had stints across clubs, restaurants and specialist cocktail bars. She was tasked to deliver a brand new cocktail menu in two months, a challenging feat for someone with little exposure to the palates and culinary trends in Singapore.
“Coming to Singapore has given me a unique challenge, but also an exciting opportunity,” Tai, now the collective’s Group Operations Director, says. “While I wasn't a complete tourist, it definitely allowed me to see the city through a fresh lens, with a heightened appreciation for local culture and ingredients.”
Today, imbibers continue to revel in uniquely Singaporean creations by the bar. The latest menu TEN commemorates a decade of memories for the bar’s 10-year anniversary. Don’t Chicken Out is a liquid spin on (contested) national dish Hainanese chicken rice, a savoury and spicy tipple comprising rum, Hainanese chilli and MSG. Another sees the classic Teochew dessert orh-nee (yam paste) reimagined as the decadent and creamy Yam Seng, boasting fragrant pandan and lemongrass, taro and mezcal.
Patrons can also experience the collective’s latest venture Last Word, a restaurant and cocktail joint situated just above Nutmeg & Clove serving a gamut of classic cocktails and Japanese nibbles.
As a frequent finalist on the World’s and Asia’s Best 50 Bars list (presently #7 on latter), Nutmeg & Clove remains committed to commemorating local stories. “Singapore's remarkable journey of progress is a story that deserves perpetual retelling,” says Chia. “There’s still a lot of narrative to explore. We have barely scratched the surface.”
