The Best Looks From Sabato De Sarno's Debut Men's Collection for Gucci Fall/Winter 2024
Gucci menswear strides into its era of allure and sensuality.
Sabato De Sarno unveiled his captivating vision for Gucci's menswear at Milan Fashion Week Men's, showcasing a clear grasp of his "Ancora" manifesto that has shaped his entire tenure at the iconic fashion house. In Italian, ancora translates to "again;" in De Sarno's Gucci realm, it signifies "a story of everything, revisited with joy." His inaugural menswear collection narrates this sartorial tale with sophistication and glamour, presenting interpretations of the timeless men’s wardrobe that resonate with a global audience.
Set against the industrial backdrop of Milan's Fonderia Carlo Macchi, a space adorned with colossal metal beams and sleek cement floors, the show unfolded in dramatic illumination. The initial looks, bathed in stark light, featured neutral suits reminiscent of De Sarno's inaugural women's collection in September. However, these ensembles were tailored with broader structures, celebrating the masculine silhouette. Enhancing the aesthetic, leather gloves and bags embraced the designer's signature hue, Gucci Rosso, a color that has taken center stage in the brand's public image since his prominent debut in the Spring 2024 collection.
Derived from Gucci's rich archives, the tone permeated a luscious finale onto glossy leather jackets, intricate jacquard workwear shirts, sleek sweaters, and an array of leather goods—from crossbody bags to duffels, cylindrical cases, and backpacks. The omnipresence of the Rosso hue underscored its paramount status on De Sarno's mood board.
Elegance took center stage as well. The designer's formal silhouettes displayed sharp tailoring, featuring meticulously crafted corners and edges that bestowed an air of invincibility upon each trench coat, blazer, and zippered jacket. Trousers adhered mostly to straight and pleated designs, aligning with business dress codes, yet a sprinkling of denim iterations hinted at a streetwear allure when styled with finesse.
De Sarno approached design strategically, balancing sales projections with creative freedom. While the more conventional silhouettes promised lucrative returns among Gucci's steadfast clientele, a segment of the collection delved into the designer's experimental agenda with a touch of sophistication. This includes overcoats adorned with crystal studs and feathered finishes, along with a half-button sweater featuring a glossy hood and a glittering tank top. While catering perhaps more to the audacious fashion enthusiasts, these fantastical details eloquently embody De Sarno's manifesto of being "completely free and filled with euphoria." Welcome to the realm of Gucci Ancora.
Check out our top 10 looks from the esteemed Gucci Men's Fall/Winter 2024 collection below!
