Saint Laurent Men&rsquo;s Fall/Winter 2026 presents a man in motion, unsettled and quietly searching.

Drawing inspiration from Giovanni&rsquo;s Room by James Baldwin, <a href="https://www.hommessingapore.com/style/saint-laurent-mens-spring-summer-2026-ysl-collection-celebrities-looks-fashion-menswear" title="Saint Laurent's Recurrence and Continuity for Spring/Summer 2026" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Anthony Vaccarello</a> builds the collection around a moment of self-reckoning. Set at dawn in Paris, it explores masculinity not as protection, but as exposure. Desire, restraint and emotional vulnerability are expressed through sharp tailoring softened by an undercurrent of tension.
The show took place at daybreak, that uneasy hour when night still lingers and the day hasn&rsquo;t fully asserted itself. Beneath the iron-and-glass dome of the Bourse de Commerce, the clothes emerged in half-light. The setting echoed the emotional state of the collection, suspended, fragile and unresolved.
Vaccarello&rsquo;s reference to Baldwin is felt more in mood than in direct narrative. Giovanni&rsquo;s Room is a novel shaped by longing, guilt and the damage caused by denying one&rsquo;s truth. Those ideas surface here in subtle ways. This was not a vision of masculinity built on bravado or dominance. Instead, it showed men held together by control and discipline, aware of their vulnerability and carrying it carefully.

The tailoring was precise and unmistakably <a href="https://www.hommessingapore.com/style/every-look-saint-laurent-men-s-fall-winter-2025-menswear-mapplethorpe-fashion-week" title="Saint Laurent Channels Robert Mapplethorpe in Men's Fall/Winter 2025" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Saint Laurent</a>, but it moved with a different ease this season. Double-breasted jackets featured strong shoulders, yet softened as they followed the body, narrowing gently at the waist. Nothing felt exaggerated or theatrical. The look was composed but slightly tense, as if never fully at rest. High-waisted trousers fell cleanly, stopping just above polished Oxfords to maintain a sharp, uninterrupted line.
Outerwear played an important role. Long coats, trench-style silhouettes in leather and vinyl, and silk ascots suggested a sense of private preparation, like dressing rituals carried out before facing the world. Knitwear stayed close to the body, shifting between fitted turtlenecks and low-cut vests. Fur collars added weight to the shoulders, bringing drama without tipping into excess. Knee-length shorts worn with stretch boots appeared beneath overcoats, a small but deliberate disruption that prevented the collection from feeling too resolved.
There was nothing decorative for the sake of it. Every element felt considered and restrained. The colour palette remained dark and nocturnal, familiar territory for Vaccarello, but the mood had shifted. This was not the sharp, assertive darkness of previous Saint Laurent seasons. It felt inward-looking and quietly charged, capturing the tension of wanting something before knowing how, or whether, to reach for it.
Fall/Winter 2026 offers no easy conclusions. Instead, it presents a man in transition, caught between night and morning, control and desire, certainty and doubt. In that unsettled space, Saint Laurent finds its strength, not through provocation, but through vulnerability held firmly in check.

Anthony Vaccarello Explores Vulnerable Masculinity For Saint Laurent Men’s FW26

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