Inspired by Luigi Ghirri's Viaggio in Italia, Matteo Tamburini delivers a collection that finds beauty in texture, craftsmanship, and the rhythms of everyday Italian life.

Italy may be fashion's most overused fantasy. Every season brings another version of it: sun-bleached linen, Amalfi lemons, handsome men leaning against vintage cars. Matteo Tamburini seems determined to avoid that Italy.
For Tod's Spring/Summer 2027, presented at Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan, the designer looked instead to Viaggio in Italia, Luigi Ghirri's 1984 photography project. Ghirri's Italy wasn't postcard-perfect. It was found in weathered walls, hidden streets, shifting light, and the small details most people overlook.

At the center of the collection was Pashmy, Tod's ongoing material experiment named after the pashmina for its softness. Tamburini has been developing it for several seasons, but here it became the collection's defining gesture. A suede shirt was so lightweight it could reportedly pass through a ring. While jackets seemed to hover rather than hang, and leather bombers had the ease of knitwear.
Tamburini worked with other familiar categories: bombers, blazers, shirts, loafers. Each piece seemed slightly loosened from its traditional role, however. The palette followed a similar path: beige, cocoa, terracotta, ochre, stone gray, Riviera blue. Colors that felt lifted from buildings, landscapes, and objects.
The Gommino returned with updates inspired by the house's Greca belt hardware, while the new Red Dot sneaker introduced a more contemporary proposition.&nbsp;

Ghirri once found beauty in ordinary Italian life by paying closer attention to it. Tamburini appears to be attempting something similar through clothing. Not reinventing the Italian wardrobe, but looking at it more carefully.
While much of menswear continues its chase for novelty, Tod's remains committed to the idea that luxury is still about materials, construction, and longevity.

Courtesy of Tod's

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