Presented during Milan Fashion Week, the show drew an international audience, with Mads Mikkelsen, James Norton and Lee Byung-hun among the guests.

Under the Art Nouveau dome of Milan&rsquo;s Palazzo del Ghiaccio, Zegna presented more than a conventional runway show. At the centre of the space, a series of wardrobes formed a visual narrative for the collection, addressing ideas of time, continuity and responsibility. Within Zegna&rsquo;s wardrobe, past, present and future sit side by side. Family garments, the textile expertise that built the brand, and a timely reflection on what it means to dress well today all come together.
&ldquo;Clothes give you confidence,&rdquo; says Ermenegildo Zegna, wearing a double-breasted coat from the 1930s that once belonged to his father. It is a simple statement, but it sets the tone clearly. This is not about nostalgia. It is about trust. Trust in quality, durability and the lasting value of well-made clothes.
The first models appeared in dressing gowns, a deliberate shift from formality to something more intimate. The gesture connects directly to the Villa Zegna project, created for clients who value bespoke tailoring and a deeper relationship with what they wear.
&ldquo;I feel like the guardian of the Zegna family wardrobe,&rdquo; Sartori said at the preview. The remark neatly defines his approach. His role is less about self-expression and more about careful stewardship.
&ldquo;The point is to buy and build a wardrobe that carries values forward. Our clients don&rsquo;t wear garments and discard them. They collect them, like watches, jewellery and meaningful objects.&rdquo; It is a clear rejection of fashion&rsquo;s disposable habits, and a proposal rooted in the culture of collecting. It also speaks to a specific audience, described by the Wall Street Journal as sophisticated, informed and more interested in permanence than novelty.

The collection revisits the foundations of the modern men&rsquo;s wardrobe, from loden and double-breasted jackets to blazers and overcoats.
&ldquo;We&rsquo;ve reworked classic pieces using the highest quality materials to make them truly timeless,&rdquo; Sartori explains.
The colour palette supports this idea. Stone, chestnut and olive dominate, lifted by touches of terracotta, honey and matte black. The result feels natural and grounded, with no urge towards excess decoration.
In terms of cut, jackets are slightly elongated, with stand collars and structured shoulders, while trousers remain soft and fluid, moving easily with the body. Suede and wool felt loafers reinforce the idea of refined comfort. Leather appears in functional outerwear, and stripes and windowpane checks are enlarged to modernise traditional tailoring without undermining it. Among the technical highlights is a patented double-breasted jacket with three horizontal buttons, designed to adapt to different ways of wearing. The Trofeo tricotine coats reference the historic trophy awarded to goat farmers, drawing attention to the supply chain and the importance of raw materials.

Courtesy of ZEGNA

Textile innovation continues quietly in the background. &ldquo;Paper&rdquo; cashmere wool, a blend of wool yarns and paper fibres, focuses on lightness and comfort. Denim is given a tailored treatment, paired with relaxed nappa leather pockets and jackets, proving that even the most casual fabrics can be elevated without losing their ease.
This is a collection that resists instant understanding. Like a family wardrobe, it reveals itself gradually, season after season, carrying forward the values of those who wear it.

Zegna Examines The Essentials For Fall/Winter 2026

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