Gucci High Watchmaking Soars in 2024
The first timepieces to come from the Maison's state-of-the-art Watch Lab in Cortaillod includes a minute repeater and a brand new line.
When Gucci opened its new Watch Lab last year, it was a sign that the brand was doubling down on its horological efforts. Now, the first timepieces from the state-of-the-art Cortaillod workshop are revealed, combining groundbreaking innovation with unmistakable House codes. Here's a look at the latest chapter of Gucci High Watchmaking:
Never thought we’d see the day, but here’s a Gucci-signed minute repeater. The horological milestone is presented in the Gucci 25H — a favourite vehicle for the Maison’s High Watchmaking endeavours — featuring three miniature hammers that strike different notes for the hours, quarters and minutes. Instead of a conventional pusher, the chiming mechanism is activated by twisting the bezel — an unexpected surprise. Architectural pattern on the dial is inspired by sound waves, while new typography for the hour numerals draws from the twinning form of the Interlocking G. A flying tourbillon adds visual splendour to this sonic masterpiece.
Sapphire cases have become something of a signature in Gucci High Watchmaking, and this year the 25H Skeleton Tourbillon is blessed with the magic of transparency. If the horizontal bridges and movement gear train weren’t conspicuous before, they are positively see-though now with a 360-degree vantage view. The crystal-clear cases continue to exemplify Gucci’s manufacturing prowess, requiring a skilled hand to sculpt without shattering the hard material.
Inspired by the iconic House code, Gucci Interlocking is a debut collection that combines two emblematic complications, the flying tourbillon and jumping hours. Roman numerals — once again with typology inspired by the line’s namesake — leap forward every 60 minutes, emerging from under the smoked sapphire glass to indicate the correct hour through an aperture. The minute hand travels the periphery, floating above a shimmering aventurine layer that moves in sync with the oscillating weight behind. Together with the same flying tourbillon found in the minute repeater, the entire scene is a revolutionary dance performed within a new elegant cushion case.
Like the aurora borealis’ dancing ribbons of light, the G-Timeless Planetarium is a chromatic spectacle of pirouetting gemstones revolving around a central tourbillon. Fiery opals and garnets, sunny beryls, verdant peridot and tourmaline, tranquil topaz and tanzanite, lustrous amethysts, and fancy pink rubellites — all of their precious brilliance is reflected off the new textured guilloché base to spellbinding effect. A diamond-set flower replaces the star at the top of the firmament, bringing a different sort of enchantment to the dazzling animation.
