Living

Christine Nagel on Crafting the Latest Terre d’Hermès Scent

The creative director of Hermès Perfumes is inspired by the power of fire for her latest creation, Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense.

adult male man person rock outdoors cliff nature

In your opinion, what makes Terre d’Hermès so iconic?

Terre d’Hermès was a breakthrough fragrance, a pioneer at the time it was created and now widely followed and imitated. It expresses the masculine at Hermès in a very strong way. This scent has become a classic in that it glides over times when it is out of fashion. It is an artistic success, a success of judgement and a commercial success that never runs out of steam. Terre d’Hermès embodies a perfumer’s ideal.

bottle cosmetics perfume aftershave

What is your approach when creating a new Terre d’Hermès expression?

Working on an icon like Terre d’Hermès is challenging, because its spirit, structure and imaginative world must be maintained while still imparting one’s signature. By changing perspectives, I am offering a new balance in the resonance of the materials, while preserving its quintessence, its canvas, its woody-mineral architecture. I approach the subject without apprehension, which allows me to take things a long way. For me, it's a fascinating exercise that I take to with great enthusiasm: Terre d’Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver in 2018, Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée in 2022 and now Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense.

Tell us about the genesis of Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense.

Reworking Terre d’Hermès always begins with an essential question: “What fascinates me about the earth?” I have always been amazed by erupting volcanoes, by the power of the lava gushing out of this black, arid earth. I feel a great aesthetic emotion at seeing this subterranean impulse, this original fire that rises from the bowels of the earth in the form of a rock that is dense and absolute in its blackness, and yet so light.

For this new creation, I wanted to explore deep into the earth. An earth under which a fire smoulders. An earth that is darker, but warmer, more fiery, more intense. At the same time, I wanted to explore a more intimate, more intense side of Man, one that expresses the inner fire that drives him.

citrus fruit food fruit plant produce lemon lime bread
rock anthracite coal

A Terre d’Hermès inspired by volcanoes and lava is certainly evocative. Have you ever encountered them in real life? How did you capture the “heat” in this scent?

I drew my inspiration from a distant memory. I once climbed a volcano in Guatemala and I thought I was going to die because the climb was so difficult — I was out of breath, my legs hurt, I had a stitch in my side... But when I reached the top, I could feel the force of this molten earth. As for lava, I have pieces of it and I still get the same pleasure from holding them, observing them and weighing them in my hands.

To evoke this subterranean drive, I worked on a bergamot that was assertive and lively, tinging it with a black pepper that had a strong signature to give it a more fiery, piquant edge. I warmed this vigorous opening with a note of burnt cedarwood, which conveys the power of this inner fire. It's two incredible raw materials that have given me this sensation: roasted coffee and natural liquorice root. Lastly, we can’t talk about Terre d’Hermès without mentioning its backbone: the mineral note. I reinterpreted the emblematic Terre d’Hermès flint accord with the idea of lava stone and its duality in a texture that is both dense and light.

Describe the personality of Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense.

I do not believe and have never believed in a standard profile, as I am firmly of the mind that fragrance is a question not of style or personality, but of emotion and sensitivity. Perhaps those who loved Terre d’Hermès 20 years ago will be pleased to discover a new facet of it. As for the younger generation, who may not be familiar with it or who don’t necessarily want to wear their father’s fragrance, perhaps this new, more intense expression will appeal to them. 

Video Player is loading.
Current Time 0:00
Duration 0:00
Loaded: 0%
Stream Type LIVE
Remaining Time 0:00
 
1x
Advertisement

Finally, how have men’s taste for fragrances evolved today, and does Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense reflect that evolution?

Men’s fragrances the world over have fallen victim to a universal phenomenon: the pursuit of strength, the kind that bludgeons the senses. This one-upmanship to see who can make the most noise is reflected in ever-increasing concentrations and ever louder creations that are quite overpowering. I can illustrate this trend with a culinary metaphor: a dish that is too hot loses the subtlety, finesse and delicacy of its flavour. I don’t need to tell you how much this upsets me, so when I decided to work on a more intense Terre d’Hermès, I went against this heavy-handed approach by looking for strength in its signature rather than a powerful scent. Hermès never does things like everyone else!

“I have always been amazed by erupting volcanoes, by the power of the lava gushing out of this black, arid earth.”

Tags

Recommended posts for you