Henry Jacques’ Antonin Khalife on His Newest Citrus Scents
The 23-year-old perfumer and grandson of the Maison’s founder revisits the old-world art of splashing cologne with Il y Avait un Jardin….
When he was in town to launch the newest essential collection by Henry Jacques, Antonin Khalife espoused on an old-world ritual he and his family still practices: splashing cologne. Not sprayed or misted, but poured into the palm, before spreading it onto the neck, chest and maybe even behind the ears. It’s a tactile and deliberate gesture repeated throughout the day, one that is elevated through the two ethereal, citrus garden-inspired compositions of Il y Avait un Jardin…. We speak to the 23-year-old bespoke perfumer (who’s also the grandson of the Maison’s founder Henry Cremona) about his latest creation.
What would you say is your greatest strength when it comes to perfume-making?
Probably my natural touch with raw materials, which is playful yet extremely precise. A deep appreciation, curiosity and knowledge for these ingredients are other traits that help in my mastery of their every nuance, allowing me to “play” with them with ease and consistency to create surprising compositions.
Tell us how Il y Avait un Jardin… was conceived.
Il y Avait un Jardin… is new to the world, yet it has been part of my family’s daily life, and now legacy, for three generations. They were created by my grandparents for personal use, as well as for family and friends. The idea was to reproduce that refreshing feeling you get when peeling a bergamot orange or crushing its leaves in your hands, with the finest expression of how an “eau de cologne” style perfume can be.
It was a privilege for me to be able to enhance the uniqueness of these creations through a spontaneous and beautiful encounter with a friend: he introduced me to a family from Calabria that had been producing some of the finest citruses in the world for six generations. That was a special moment, because my curiosity as a Henry Jacques perfumer never allows me to be satisfied when it comes to discovering new ingredients, or even rediscovering those I already knew.
What is your approach when creating a new fragrance collection?
My sources of inspiration are very diverse, and spontaneous. Spontaneity is my key to unlocking new creative doors. Discovering and surprising myself with new raw materials from around the world triggers associations, and therefore writes a new story, a true story. For me, a concept is the result of inspiration, an emotion that evolves into a project.
The name “Il y Avait un Jardin…” (“There was a garden…”) is quite evocative. What was the most memorable garden you’ve visited?
It is. For me, the most memorable and evocative garden is the one from our family home in Italy. It is a citrus garden of bitter orange and lemon trees, threaded with rosemary, and enclosed by walls adorned with climbing jasmine.
What’s your strongest olfactory memory?
The smell at the entrance of our old laboratory, in the south of France. A bouquet born from the effluence of hundreds of raw materials, each with a unique olfactory character, surprisingly blending in remarkable harmony.
Favourite ingredient to work with?
Essence of Sandalwood.
A legendary perfume?
Our very own Roi sans Équipage.
Finally, how have men’s taste for fragrances evolved today?
I would say that the boundaries of taste in perfumery are becoming less and less noticeable in the eyes of men, although I can proudly say that at Henry Jacques, our creations have always been equally cherished by both men and women. Il y Avait un Jardin… is a reminder that, when created, our perfumes are built around the beauty of raw materials and harmonious accords, over the notion of the wearer.
“Il y Avait un Jardin… is new to the world, yet it has been part of my family’s daily life, and now legacy, for three generations.”
