Iru Den Refreshes Menu with Taiwanese Flavours

When it opened in 2021, Iru Den presented a menu of premium Japanese ingredients prepared with a Japanese-European approach. But a trip to Taiwan in the summer of 2023 changed all that. Singaporean chef-owner Javier Low uncovered the island’s vibrant bounty then, and his menu evolved soon after to reflect his discovery.

Do you recall what convinced you to use Taiwanese ingredients in your menu?

It was a special moment for me to reconnect with an old colleague whom I knew from when she worked with me at Iggy’s. That connection led to my collaboration with Sinasera 24, where Chef Nick introduced me to Taiwanese ingredients. I remember their restaurant being so far out, but the moment I reached Taitung, it was incredibly beautiful and amazing. I recall visiting fish ports and seeing familiar fish that I recognised, with an abundance and quality I deeply appreciated. That was the first time I thought about using Taiwanese ingredients. The producers, fishermen, and farmers were also so passionate, friendly, and open. It was a game changer, being able to see the people behind the produce.

What is unique about premium Taiwanese ingredients?

Premium Taiwanese ingredients do share some similarities with Japanese ingredients but yet, there are some distinct differences. For example, Amadai, or tilefish: the Taiwanese version has an incredibly tender texture, compared to the Japanese Amadai, which is much firmer. Tachiuo (beltfish), a highly prized fish in Japan, can also be found in Taiwan’s waters. When I used it during a collaboration in Taitung, I noticed it was significantly larger and had more fat compared to those in Japan, with a richer flavour as well.

The new menu also highlights Taiwanese flavours. How would you define “Taiwanese flavour”?

Taiwanese flavours share many similarities with those of Singapore and Japan — for example, the use of five-spice and the influence of Japanese techniques in their cooking. One item that I think our team has done particularly well with is cai pu (dry-aged radish). My mother-in-law once asked us to bring back a large batch of her homemade cai pu, aged for 10 years in her front yard. I remember the aroma being so strong and unique as it sat in our cupboard. This inspired us to incorporate it into our cai pu butter and cai pu chicken broth. Taiwanese cuisine is also very much about enhancing the natural flavours of ingredients and showcasing the quality of the produce.

You have a passion for wines, too. What kinds of wine pairs especially well with Taiwanese flavours?

I believe orange wines and Burgundy Pinots pair particularly well. The former is juicy, fresh, and slightly funky, making it a great match for dishes like salted fried chicken. The latter is elegant, light, and aromatic, complementing meats and five- spice flavours perfectly.

Lastly, what is your go-to Taiwanese street food, and any thoughts about incorporating that into your menu?

Mala smelly tofu and gua bao (braised pork belly bun) are two standout dishes. Mala smelly tofu would be a dream to include, though it may be challenging due to its strong aroma — but I highly encourage everyone to try it! Gua bao, or kong ba bao, holds a lot of sentimental value for me, bringing back memories of my grandmother. My journey to becoming a chef began with this very dish. As they say, never say never!