Everything You Need to Know About The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel
A superb way to kick off the Manufacture's 270th anniversary.
During the 1970s fever for integrated bracelet steel sports watches, the Holy Trinity of Watchmaking each presented their own versions of the style. Two were blessed with the infallible touch of a design god; the third sought counsel elsewhere. No guesses as to which became future icons. But the 222 is certainly no less of a triumph than the Nautilus or Royal Oak, despite being overlooked. Remove Gérald Genta’s blinding aura, and you’ll see that Vacheron Constantin’s entry is just as notable and covetable as its famous counterparts, especially in retrospect.
The 222 was relatively late to the party when it arrived in 1977 (the year of the Manufacture’s 222nd anniversary). It needed to distinguish itself from the other Genta-esque designs, so when a young Jörg Hysek (who would go on to become a brilliant watch designer in his own right) walked in with his original drawings, the rest was history. Unlike the nautical-inspired octagonal forms of its contemporaries, the 222 came with a tonneau case and circular fluted bezel; more atypical was the engraved Maltese cross on the bottom right lug. It was these idiosyncrasies that gave the 222 its charm; that it was often mistaken for a Genta creation was testament to Hysek’s vision.
Vacheron Constantin revisited the 222 in 2022, a numerically symbolic year (the long hiatus was due to the Overseas taking its place since the 1990s, a brawnier cousin that was more attuned to the times). This was also when the resurgent interest in integrated bracelet sports watches was in full swing, so the timing was ripe for a revival. But the Manufacture is not one to capitalise on trends. Rather than steel, the 222 was brought back in yellow gold. And what that did was allow people to rediscover this horological gem without it being just another steel stunner with a bracelet. The Overseas is cool and contemporary for sure, but with the proper hindsight and after years of obscurity, the Historiques 222’s retro sensibilities made it fresh and super desirable.
Unsurprisingly, there have been numerous calls for a more accessible Historiques 222 in steel. Well, it appears that Vacheron Constantin was simply saving it for the next significant milestone — namely, the Manufacture’s 270th anniversary in 2025. The 37mm steel model, nicknamed “Jumbo”, was the inaugural creation after all, and it deserves to be celebrated in an occasion of equal importance. The steel Historiques 222 features a handsome blue dial, with the same aesthetic updates as the yellow gold model (moving the date window towards the centre so it doesn’t interrupt the minutes track, for example). Its bracelet has also been redesigned to improve ergonomics and is now fastened with a triple-blade clasp. The transparent caseback reveals the modern in-house Calibre 2455/2. Basically, the watch looks nearly identical to the 1977 original, with subtle and sensible refinements. It’s magnificent, and a great start to Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary.
