Watches & Wonders 2024 Roundup: Bell & Ross, Hermès, Parmigiani Fleurier, Patek Philippe
A new case shape, all-black ceramic, and — gasp! — denim, we look at the timepieces making their own style statements.
Often in horology we focus on the mechanics of time. But let's not forget that wristwatches are accessories as well. These chic and fashionable timepieces from Watches & Wonders 2024 are out to make an impression on the wrist.
Bell & Ross gives us three shades of black. We knew this was coming: Bell & Ross introduces technical ceramic to its urban BR 05 line, in signature all-black. The ultra-modern material adorns three striking models: the BR 05 Black Ceramic, BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic and BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic, with the skeleton versions featuring smoked sapphire crystals that reveal their black ruthenium-finished movements dial-side. Two shine with a satin polish, while the third matte ceramic skeleton dips hour markers and hands in high-shine green lume for a tactical look. All are bold statements of style.
Hermès makes the cut. When everyone is playing it safe with their offerings, Hermès continues to come up with original watch designs. That, at the very least, is admirable. The Cut is the latest geometrical proposition from the brand: a round watch, but not a perfect circle thanks to two clean “cuts” along its flanks. Don’t call it a cushion either; the bezel and unconventional positioning of the crown reasserts its roundness, resulting in an intriguing interplay that we’re still getting a feel for. With a nice 36mm sizing, in steel or elegant two-tone, and a bracelet that’s easily interchangeable with a bevy of rubber strap colours, this is one of the few releases that actually got us excited.
Parmigiani Fleurier is a purist. There is a skill to making simple watches sublime, and Parmigiani Fleurier, under the guidance of CEO Guido Terrini, certainly has the touch. The Toric returns in flawless form, stripped of everything but the essentials and dressed only in noble materials. Manual-wound movement, grained dial, and even the indexes, hands and buckle are all crafted in gold. The minimalist dial, in particular, is textured like sumptuous suede and draws from Le Corbusier’s palette of bucolic pastels. Cased in rose gold or platinum and topped with the emblematic knurled bezel, this is aesthetic perfection, pure and simple.
Patek Philippe dresses down. Denim in the exalted universe of Patek Philippe? What is the world coming to? Setting aside the “How do you do, fellow kids?” memes, it’s always nice to see the illustrious watchmaker break away from overly strict formality. The fashionable fabric is strapped onto the new generation world-timer that synchronises date with local time (Ref. 5330, first launched as a limited edition at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo last year), matching the youthful energy of the watch’s “carbon” motif centre. Think of it as jeans with a tux jacket — in the right circumstances, it’s a fun twist that can breathe new life to your outfit.
